Another Stoff and Stil Hoodie and a Stoff and Stil skirt

Following the success of daughter no 2 and her hoodie I was asked to make another for no 1. I bought the same speckled sweatshirting fabric from Guthrie and Ghani. I’ve now bought this fabric in orange (Linden sweatshirt), Green (Linden sweatshirt), oatmeal (Stoff and Still hoodie) and this yellow (Stoff and Still hoodie). I’ve still got the navy blue to make up. I love the multicoloured speckles in the fabric !

Th making is straightforward and I made no changes even though no 1 is much smaller than no 2. She’s just got a baggier top, which is a style she is very happy with.IMG_7258

The hood on this one is lined with a jersey from C+H I used to make a lady skater dress last year.

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Back view. Again I used the sweatshirt fabric for the hem band and cuffs.IMG_7251

I have also made  no 1 a long plain grey jersey skirt. I have made her a similar garment in the past but it is now worn out and she wanted it replaced. I bought a lightweight grey jersey for a very reasonable price but I can’t remember where from which tells me I have been buying too much fabric if I have lost track of it. Even though it’s a really simple shape I bought a pattern. (Which has since disappeared from the Stoff and Stil website)IMG_7265

There is just one pattern piece, cut twice, although I did make another pattern piece for pockets which I inserted in the side seams using the technique from my Alphonse trousers. After all what use is a skirt without pockets ? The pattern has splits up the side but I made it without and there is plenty of room for walking. No 1’s main criteria for a garment being that she can move in any direction at any time without restriction, she is very keen on yoga.

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I left out the decorative drawstring on the waist and just did a simple elastic casing.

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No 1 is very pleased with her new garments although I always tell her I am sure I get just as much pleasure making for her as she does in the receiving.

 

 

Another Stoff and Stil Hoodie and a Stoff and Stil skirt

Schnittchen Catrin no2

I have made a Catrin before for daughter no3 and she liked it so much she asked for another one.

Now on the pattern envelope the picture of the finished garment looks like this

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A very baggy oversized sweatshirt with a loose hem.

When I made this before in a size 38, which was correct according to measurements the bottom band was so tight no3 couldn’t even get the garment on and I had to remove the band and make a new one one size up. Its still a tight fit at the hip and nowhere near as loose as this picture.

With this in mind I again cut a size 38 but with a hem band for size 44.

The fabric request was for something tropical but eventually a cactus print from stoff and stil was chosen.

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The oversized width of the body comes from side panels which are incorporated into the sleeve seam, you can just see them here

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Now I don’t know about you but on the pattern envelope I can only conclude that the model is very tiny and is wearing the largest possible version of this garment because even with the  very enlarged hem band it is STILL not as loose as the one pictured. Although no3 is smaller than I am and this will be baggier on her it’s still not going to look quite like the picture. You have been warned…..

PS You would never know I have got a son who is a professional photographer, he certainly didn’t get his talent from his father ‘scuse the drainpipe……….maybe one day he’ll come home and take my photos for me !

Schnittchen Catrin no2

Stoff & Stil 22054 Hoody

Having made sweatshirts for daughters 1 and 3 I offered to make one for no2. Now no2, unlike her sisters likes ‘designer’ clothing and is always rather dismissive of my handmade efforts but conceded that she would like a sweatshirt as long is it had a higher neckline that the Linden and Catrin I had made for no1 and no3.

I had already purchased and oatmeal coloured speckled fleece from Guthri and Ghani for this project and then spotted this pattern on the Stoff and Stil website. £3.75 ! That seemed very reasonable for a paper pattern so I ordered it and this is what came in the post

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Inside the envelope are three A4 pages with written instructions in various languages and NO PICTURES ! Yikes ! Also in the envelope are these…..

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pre-cut pattern pieces for the size I had ordered in a kind of interfacing fabric, softer than swedish tracing paper but a similar weight. The pattern pieces have holes and notches in them but no other identification so you have to match them up with the pieces shown on the cutting diagram just by shape which for this particular garment is quite easy. It saved so much time having the pattern pieces ready to go.

I had help with the cutting out….

It turns out you need two fabrics for this garment as the hood is lined (or possibly 3 if you use ribbing for the welt and cuffs), fortunately I had some of this cute jersey in my stash which looks quite good with the oatmeal sweatshirting. (I think this came from Plush Addict)

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You make the hood first

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…and then on instruction 7 it says you should overlock all the seams…..except by this point the hood is a sealed unit and you can’t ! I also worked out that the phrase ‘make a stitching’ means ‘topstitch’. I made the hood ties from rouleau strips of the hood lining fabric. I used the sweatshirt fabric for the cuffs and welt rather than ribbing as I didn’t have any the right colour.

AND… I ended up with a really nice sweatshirt

 

All I can say is if no2 doesn’t like it, I’m having it ! She’s a bit smaller than me so it should be more oversize on her.

Stoff & Stil 22054 Hoody

Bethioua – The one with the ‘feature sleeve’

So,The Monthly Stitch is gearing up for IPM, Indie pattern month, and they have put a list of Indie pattern makers on their site. As I have never heard of a lot of them I have spent far too much time in the last couple of weeks happily nosing through their sites.

Last week I came across this Bethioua top from Elle Puls. I have been looking for a design for a sweatshirt like this for AGES so I downloaded it in English and just HAD to make it straight away. The only problem being I didn’t really have any suitable fabric in my stash and it was a Sunday and there are no fabric shops near me that are open on Sunday (No fabric shops near me at all in fact !!) But aha ! I DID have a suitable fabric a 1.1m remnant….the pattern requires 1.4m if being made in a single fabric.

I folded the fabric this way and that, I jiggled the pattern pieces about, but no, definitely not enough fabric until OH suggested MAKING enough fabric. So that is what I did. I decided that I could in fact make one of the sleeves from three different offcuts from the main cutting.

So I sat down at the sewing table and just ran through the list of pattern pieces and…..what’s that….? Cuffs ? a neckband ? I went back to the pdf…no cuffs, no neckband included in the pattern pieces. I had hardly any fabric left due to the shenanigans with the sleeve ! Going back to the beginning of the instructions there is a table, like a table of measurements (which is why I had totally overlooked them) with the dimensions for making the cuffs and neckband pieces but they don’t appear as pattern pieces on the pdf nor is there any mention of them there either which is extremely confusing. Anyway I gathered my remaining scrapettes of fabric and managed to make a 3 piece neckband and some very narrow cuffs. All pieces present although not necessarily correct.

I realised that I would never be able to disguise the piecing of the sleeve so decided to make a feature of it in the spirt of Wabi Sabi .To make my 3 piece sleeve I overlocked two pieces together and the sewed the resulting seam flat.

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I have no idea whether this is a legitimate technique but I think it looks ok. The rest of the garment was really easy to sew and I had it finished in just over an hour. It fits nicely and I love the dropped hem at the back.

That sleeve looks like a deliberate design feature doesn’t it ? No one will ever know….I will definitely be making this again using the different coloured sleeves as suggested by the pattern drawing, but next time I will be careful to select my fabrics in advance, in the correct lengths, and I will remember that although the cuffs and neckband don’t appear on the pdf pattern they still need to be accounted for.

I love my new sweatshirt !

Bethioua – The one with the ‘feature sleeve’

Kommatia boxy tunic x 2

I saw this top on megsewing and loved it. I bought the pattern from Kommatia patterns straight away but couldn’t find exactly the fabric I wanted until I found this lightish sweatshirt jersey on my fabrics. I downloaded and traced out the pattern and then the wait for the fabric…..on the Monday I received a dispatch notice and thought it might arrive on Wednesday, no joy. I was in all day Thursday except for 5 minutes when I went out to hang the washing on the line. Wouldn’t you know that that 5 minutes was the exact time the postman came and left a card though the letterbox saying I could collect the parcel from the Post Office the following day. So frustrating ! Anyway, on Friday I finally had my hands on the fabric…I was really pleased with it, it’s sort of reversibleIMG_3463

Once I had seen it I realised that I wanted to make a feature of the reverse side of the fabric and decided to do the neck binding and hems in reverse.

I noted from megsewing that she had found the garment to be a bit short so I decided to add 10cm to the body length to ensure my make was long enough to cover my backside. IMG_3464The instructions were very easy to follow and the garment came together very quickly, however when I came to try it on I found that the sleeves were very tight to the extent that I could barely bend my arms ! Oh dear ! The extra length also was too much and it just looked as if I was wearing a sack. What to do ?

I ended up by resewing the sleeve seams with the tiniest seam allowance I thought I could get away with and cut away the length from the front to make a hi/lo bottom hem.

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I really like the way the reverse trim has worked out.

IMG_3547I’m actually very pleased with it although I may have cut the front a little high and would do it a couple of cm lower next time.My daughter loves it and I can see it may ‘vanish’ from my wardrobe in the near future unless I make her one of her own PDQ !

Ok, so today I decided to make the second one for my daughter. I had bought two lots of fabric, blue and grey so she got the grey. She asked for it to be big all over with a straight hem so I left the hem as per the pattern +4 inches and increased the sleeve width.

 

I’m amazed how such small changes can completely alter the look of a garment. I think I prefer the style of the blue, but she seems very happy with the grey longline version.

Kommatia boxy tunic x 2