Another Stoff and Stil Hoodie and a Stoff and Stil skirt

Following the success of daughter no 2 and her hoodie I was asked to make another for no 1. I bought the same speckled sweatshirting fabric from Guthrie and Ghani. I’ve now bought this fabric in orange (Linden sweatshirt), Green (Linden sweatshirt), oatmeal (Stoff and Still hoodie) and this yellow (Stoff and Still hoodie). I’ve still got the navy blue to make up. I love the multicoloured speckles in the fabric !

Th making is straightforward and I made no changes even though no 1 is much smaller than no 2. She’s just got a baggier top, which is a style she is very happy with.IMG_7258

The hood on this one is lined with a jersey from C+H I used to make a lady skater dress last year.

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Back view. Again I used the sweatshirt fabric for the hem band and cuffs.IMG_7251

I have also made  no 1 a long plain grey jersey skirt. I have made her a similar garment in the past but it is now worn out and she wanted it replaced. I bought a lightweight grey jersey for a very reasonable price but I can’t remember where from which tells me I have been buying too much fabric if I have lost track of it. Even though it’s a really simple shape I bought a pattern. (Which has since disappeared from the Stoff and Stil website)IMG_7265

There is just one pattern piece, cut twice, although I did make another pattern piece for pockets which I inserted in the side seams using the technique from my Alphonse trousers. After all what use is a skirt without pockets ? The pattern has splits up the side but I made it without and there is plenty of room for walking. No 1’s main criteria for a garment being that she can move in any direction at any time without restriction, she is very keen on yoga.

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I left out the decorative drawstring on the waist and just did a simple elastic casing.

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No 1 is very pleased with her new garments although I always tell her I am sure I get just as much pleasure making for her as she does in the receiving.

 

 

Another Stoff and Stil Hoodie and a Stoff and Stil skirt

The Tunic of Doom !

I have been taking some pattern cutting classes in order to improve my sewing skills and after 4 weeks of block making, drafting, toile-ing and pattern making I was finally given the go-ahead to make up a garment from my pattern.

Now for some reason which I still can’t work out, a pattern manipulation class led to my pattern doing away with darts which have been manipulated and incorporated into curved seams and a panelled garment (I don’t own any garments made this way and now I know why…)

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This is the back side piece as an example.

I have never had much of a bust and was very surprised to find such curved seams appear from my measurements, where did the curves come from ? I’ve never had any !

Both my first and second choice stash fabrics were too small to fit all the pattern pieces so I settled for a piece of cotton which I must have had for 10 years solely based on its length being sufficient. It was a gift and has been in my stash for at least 10 years because I don’t really like it that much for garment use and in fact have used it as a tablecloth.

Have you ever sewn with a fabric you don’t really like ? It puts a downer on proceedings right from the start.

There were obviously no instructions for assembling the garment as all I had were the pattern pieces so I was relying entirely on acquired knowledge for the construction process. I started by attaching the side front panels to the centre front piece which was similar to easing in a set in sleeve but MUCH more difficult. Where did all the fabric come from ? The pattern pieces had originally been one piece of paper so how come the side panels seemed to have so much more fabric along the curve than the centre front ? Eventually I got the two together then had to recreate for the back but why are there curved panels on the back ? I don’t have angel wings or anything…..

I ws getting grumpier and grumpier by the minute but consoled myself with the knowledge that this would fit me really well because it was made to my measurements and the toiles had been corrected to my shape except that this has turned out to be the absolutely worst fitting garment I think I have ever made….EVER !  I really didn’t enjoy making it and it has got its revenge by being awkward and turning out really horrible.

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Trust me you don’t want to see it on. The bust is in the wrong place, it’s all baggy in the middle and generally bleurgh….

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I made a nice facing for it….IMG_6810

My invisible zip is nice and invisible…..

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It’s got side splits at the hip….but I can’t tell you how much I hate and resent this garment, let alone the disappointment that it doesn’t fit better.

I will be taking it back to class next Monday to see what I have done wrong but I am not altering it and I am certainly never wearing it. Me and this tunic top are through…

The Tunic of Doom !

Schnittchen Catrin no2

I have made a Catrin before for daughter no3 and she liked it so much she asked for another one.

Now on the pattern envelope the picture of the finished garment looks like this

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A very baggy oversized sweatshirt with a loose hem.

When I made this before in a size 38, which was correct according to measurements the bottom band was so tight no3 couldn’t even get the garment on and I had to remove the band and make a new one one size up. Its still a tight fit at the hip and nowhere near as loose as this picture.

With this in mind I again cut a size 38 but with a hem band for size 44.

The fabric request was for something tropical but eventually a cactus print from stoff and stil was chosen.

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The oversized width of the body comes from side panels which are incorporated into the sleeve seam, you can just see them here

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Now I don’t know about you but on the pattern envelope I can only conclude that the model is very tiny and is wearing the largest possible version of this garment because even with the  very enlarged hem band it is STILL not as loose as the one pictured. Although no3 is smaller than I am and this will be baggier on her it’s still not going to look quite like the picture. You have been warned…..

PS You would never know I have got a son who is a professional photographer, he certainly didn’t get his talent from his father ‘scuse the drainpipe……….maybe one day he’ll come home and take my photos for me !

Schnittchen Catrin no2

Little Red Skirt

This is the second of my promised weekly makes for MeMadeMay2017. The fabric is a medium weight cotton supposedly Liberty which was a gift from one of my daughters for Christmas.

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I was given a 2m piece of this and originally wanted to make a pair of summer trousers BUT the fabric is only 90cm wide so must be quite old and not enough for trousers. I therefore decided to make a little skirt but make it with extra care due to the provenance of the fabric.

I used the Tweed A line mini skirt hack of the Lace pencil skirt pattern in the GBSB ‘Fashion with Fabric’ book, mainly because those are both lined skirts and I wanted to line this make. I used a plain red lightweight cotton muslin for the lining. I cut a size 14  but although the pattern measured ok I ended up taking about 6cm off the hips altogether.

I followed the instructions up to the zip insertion, but as I had an ordinary zip as opposed to an invisible zip I had to make it up from there which caused a bit of head scratching but I am really pleased with the result.

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I also faced the waistband, under stitched the facing and attached it at the side seams and dart seams. I have just finished the facing with overlock stitching.

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The hem is finished with satin bias tape.

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The skirt fits nicely but I have given up trying to take photos of myself wearing my makes, I’m totally incompetent.

I have also labelled the skirt with my own label, a packet of which has just arrived from Wunderlabel

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In other sewing excitement I have taken the advice of The Material Lady and have found a relatively local sewing teacher, the rather wonderful Gail Ames. Whilst I have enjoyed sewing for years I know NOTHING !! I’ve really enjoyed the first few sessions and looking forward to many more……

Little Red Skirt

Sew Over It Silk Cami

I choose this pattern when I joined the Sew Over It pdf club and as I’ve now made two in a week you could say I like it !

The first one I made was in a very lightweight cotton/silk blend fabric that I bought in the Truro Fabrics shop when on holiday last year. The second one is a viscose from Close and Hamblin in Winchester which I bought last week for making a pair of Tania Culottes but after cutting them out had quite a lot of fabric left over and thought best to use it up straight away rather than stash it. (I’ve got so many bits of fabric 0.7m-1.0m left over from various projects and I MUST make an effort to use them up !)

The pattern has four pieces, two for the main body and two for the facing. The instructions on the whole are very clear although somewhere around instructions 13 and 14 you really do need to do some under stitching on the facing otherwise it just rolls out, this was especially the case with the lightweight silk/cotton fabric.

I cut a 14 and the fit is pretty good on me, I don’t really have the armhole gaping issues that some other people have complained about so I’m happy about that. I think I prefer the green floral top as the silk one is quite see through. If I make another one with such lightweight fabric I’ll do a full length facing.

This is the silk one.

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This is the viscose one. (Note to self, brush hair before taking photo…)

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Here’s hoping for a continuation of the sunny weather. I might make some more of these….

Sew Over It Silk Cami

The Ellie Travel Case, Bee Style.

So you know those days when you spend far too much time on the internet reading other people’s blogs ? I was doing just that yesterday when I came across Fabric Mutt’s Ellie Travel Case and thought I’d give it a go.

This bag is made entirely from scraps; the very last bit left over from The Bee Cushion, denim scraps from my Morgan jeans, and the lining  from my Southport dress cutouts. the ‘batting’ is from a jacket lining kit I bought in a fit of enthusiasm for making a tailored jacket but for which I have not yet developed sufficient skill…..

The zip is an old one from a bag of random zips I got from eBay but which I’ve never managed to match up with any previous makes.

Fabric mutt’s instructions and photo tutorial are really clear and potential items of difficulty are pointed out and explained although they didn’t account for me having to sew through 6 layers of denim weight fabric to attach the handles (breaking 3 size 90 needles in the process !)

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The lining went in well.

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And I’m quite pleased with the end result especially as I’ve never made anything like this before. The finished item is washbag sized and I think it’s really cute.

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The Ellie Travel Case, Bee Style.

Tilly and the Buttons – Marigold Trousers

I’ve never made a Tilly pattern despite them being all over the internet and liked the look of a loose-ish pair of trousers, but was sold by the pockets and pleat detail. I bought the pattern and was slightly put off by the requirement for ‘drapey’ fabric as originally I had in mind a light cotton lawn.

However I was persuaded by an offer on didyoumakethat‘s Dogs in Space posting to order this viscose from Stoff and Stil. I actually bought two different lots of viscose but one was MUCH more expensive than the other so this pair is my practice pair in the more reasonable fabric.

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I found Tilly’s style of photo illustrated instructions very helpful and easy to follow although I needed to concentrate to focus on the trouser instructions rather than the jumpsuit instructions as they are mixed up together.

I also remember why I don’t like sewing with viscose, it frays horribly ! But now I have an overlocker it was soon brought under control.

I cut a straight size 4 and am very pleased with the fit of the trousers without having to make any adjustments. I am quite tall and often find I have to adjust the rise on trousers but these have a deep rise which worked well for me.

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I really like the pocket and pleat detail of this trouser design.

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Waistband finishing.

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So now I need to break out the ‘real’ fabric….

I’d definitely give another Tilly and the Buttons pattern a go.

P.S. Just seen Tilly’s pair of Marigolds at the Knitting and Stitching Show 2017 and am now going to stitch through the elastic along the length of the waistband as she has to get the waistband sitting flatter…..

 

 

Tilly and the Buttons – Marigold Trousers