Stoff & Stil 22054 Hoody

Having made sweatshirts for daughters 1 and 3 I offered to make one for no2. Now no2, unlike her sisters likes ‘designer’ clothing and is always rather dismissive of my handmade efforts but conceded that she would like a sweatshirt as long is it had a higher neckline that the Linden and Catrin I had made for no1 and no3.

I had already purchased and oatmeal coloured speckled fleece from Guthri and Ghani for this project and then spotted this pattern on the Stoff and Stil website. £3.75 ! That seemed very reasonable for a paper pattern so I ordered it and this is what came in the post


Inside the envelope are three A4 pages with written instructions in various languages and NO PICTURES ! Yikes ! Also in the envelope are these…..


pre-cut pattern pieces for the size I had ordered in a kind of interfacing fabric, softer than swedish tracing paper but a similar weight. The pattern pieces have holes and notches in them but no other identification so you have to match them up with the pieces shown on the cutting diagram just by shape which for this particular garment is quite easy. It saved so much time having the pattern pieces ready to go.

I had help with the cutting out….

It turns out you need two fabrics for this garment as the hood is lined (or possibly 3 if you use ribbing for the welt and cuffs), fortunately I had some of this cute jersey in my stash which looks quite good with the oatmeal sweatshirting. (I think this came from Plush Addict)


You make the hood first


…and then on instruction 7 it says you should overlock all the seams…..except by this point the hood is a sealed unit and you can’t ! I also worked out that the phrase ‘make a stitching’ means ‘topstitch’. I made the hood ties from rouleau strips of the hood lining fabric. I used the sweatshirt fabric for the cuffs and welt rather than ribbing as I didn’t have any the right colour.

AND… I ended up with a really nice sweatshirt


All I can say is if no2 doesn’t like it, I’m having it ! She’s a bit smaller than me so it should be more oversize on her.

Stoff & Stil 22054 Hoody

£6.00 outfit (£4.00 wrap skirt £2.00 top)

This is my week 3 weekly make for MeMadeMay 2017. Aside from wearing me made garments every day in May I am also making a weekly garment, this week there are two.

The first is from this Butterick pattern.IMG_6635

I don’t recall where this pattern came from (it smells very musty…), I can only conclude it was purchased for a school DT project, or given to me in a bundle of old patterns from a friend. Anyway it was uncut and free.

I decided to make it up in a cotton that I bought at the knitting and stitching show earlier in the year. I think this cotton is GORGEOUS, I love the texture, I love the colours and I got the roll end of 2.3m for £2.00 a metre and the last bit thrown in for free so £4.00 total. It a medium weight, slightly looser weave than a poplin and with a slight seersucker texture.

The basic skirt is a straight skirt with a false wrap over panel across the front with a rouleau tie and a split up one side. The front is flat and the back is elasticated. It looks simple but was actually more complicated than I thought. There is a lot of edging, around the wrap over, the waistband, the hems and its all done at different times in the construction. I also had to keep an eye on the fabric as the front and backs are remarkably similar but there IS a difference. I made view B the long plain skirt.





My £2.00 top is made from the Linden sweatshirt pattern (which I have already used 3 times) with a metre of fabric I bought from Fabricland last year with a view to making some pants from it. Unfortunately it didn’t have enough stretch for those so it has been languishing in the cupboard ever since. The fabric is a 2 way stretch cotton jersey with little ‘bubbles’ in stripes in the fabric like a 1960’s swimming costume.

I have tried to match up the stripes evenly on both sides and made the neck binding from a strip of the ‘bubbles’.



Progress from the sewing classes I have been taking is I have now got a calico from my 4th iteration of my bodice block and it still doesn’t fit…….look at that neckline ! But the bust is now under control….(its much better on)IMG_6636

Roll on Monday !



£6.00 outfit (£4.00 wrap skirt £2.00 top)

Merchant and Mills Ellis Dress

Apart from the Merchant and Mills official picture on pinterest I can’t find any information or reviews on this pattern, nothing on WordPress, nothing on pinterest, nothing on Instagram, maybe I’m not doing the right searches…or has no-one made this pattern up ? I am about to start making this for the first of my weekly makes for MMMay 2017 and am a bit worried about this dearth of information…..

The fabric I have chosen is a mini seersucker from Stof and Still in red and orage

Anyway, cutting out….I have cut a 14 for the top but have had to narrow the width of the skirt due to the width of the fabric, but as the skirt is so full I didn’t think it would matter. I also chose to make the Ellis dress with the Hattie pockets as illustrated on the pattern sleeve.

The first bit to make is a rouleau loop for the back button IMG_6501           IMG_6502

Followed by the facing for the top


Then it’s onto the darts for the front. I LOVE this detail, four neck darts and two sort of french darts.


Then I sort of got carried away and before I knew it the dress was finished ! the only problem I came up against was the pocket placement. On the pattern pieces there are four points marked for the Hattie pocket (which was the one I used as I think the inseam pockets for the Ellis make the dress look too plain) which makes you think the pocket is designed to sit within those four markings on the front skirt piece but on the pattern instruction the pocket is clearly shown as going across the seam between front and back skirt pieces. I finally worked out that two of the pattern markings are for the front and the other two are for the back but it is not clear which ones are which so I just approximated the position from the pattern instructions


I really love all those front darts !


Back view.


Rouleau loop and covered button.


The finished dress. Now, where did the sun go….?

Merchant and Mills Ellis Dress

Tilly and the Buttons – Marigold Trousers

I’ve never made a Tilly pattern despite them being all over the internet and liked the look of a loose-ish pair of trousers, but was sold by the pockets and pleat detail. I bought the pattern and was slightly put off by the requirement for ‘drapey’ fabric as originally I had in mind a light cotton lawn.

However I was persuaded by an offer on didyoumakethat‘s Dogs in Space posting to order this viscose from Stoff and Stil. I actually bought two different lots of viscose but one was MUCH more expensive than the other so this pair is my practice pair in the more reasonable fabric.


I found Tilly’s style of photo illustrated instructions very helpful and easy to follow although I needed to concentrate to focus on the trouser instructions rather than the jumpsuit instructions as they are mixed up together.

I also remember why I don’t like sewing with viscose, it frays horribly ! But now I have an overlocker it was soon brought under control.

I cut a straight size 4 and am very pleased with the fit of the trousers without having to make any adjustments. I am quite tall and often find I have to adjust the rise on trousers but these have a deep rise which worked well for me.

img_6039                                        img_6037

I really like the pocket and pleat detail of this trouser design.


Waistband finishing.


So now I need to break out the ‘real’ fabric….

I’d definitely give another Tilly and the Buttons pattern a go.

P.S. Just seen Tilly’s pair of Marigolds at the Knitting and Stitching Show 2017 and am now going to stitch through the elastic along the length of the waistband as she has to get the waistband sitting flatter…..



Tilly and the Buttons – Marigold Trousers

The Bee Cushion

Daughter No1 Martha-Anne has designed a ‘Bumble Bee’ pattern for her sister’s 21st birthday and wanted me to make her a cushion with the pattern on. One single metre was printed by Lacuna Press on half panama cotton and delivered to me. 

Coincidentally, the day the fabric arrived I received an email from The Sewing Directory with instructions for making a piped scatter cushion, how fortuitous !

Following the instructions I made some piping which I’ve never done before and made the cushion as instructed. It was easier than I expected.

The piping turned out really well.

I hope they are both pleased with the result. This is a very unique item as nearly all the metre of this one off fabric has been used up.(Bonus, I’ve got permission to use the offcuts for an eye pillow…..)

The Bee Cushion

A Barrie fest

When your daughter’s Christmas present list says ‘Pants. (Made by mum)’. You need to start a production line. I bought some 4 way stretch jersey from Raysitch in a marled cream colour plus some bluey grey with little mushrooms on.

I made six pairs of Barries using these two fabrics in various combinations.

‘Pants.(Made  by mum)’sorted….

A Barrie fest

Thread Theory Comox Trunks

I wanted to make something for OH and as he thinks its hilarious that I wear homemade pants I decided to make him some of his own.

I bought The Comox Trunks kit from Thread Theory and made a pair of trunks.


The bamboo fabric supplied with the kit is lovely and soft and quite stretchy. I made a size 36 according to OH’s measurements but the finished garment was a bit too big so I had to take off the waistband, reduce it and reapply. I was moderately happy with the result but the gapping at the cup is annoying (it isn’t evident once they are on but I know it’s there !)

There is 60 cm of fabric supplied with the kit and there was enough fabric left over to make myself a lovely pair of Barries so now we have matching his n hers underwear.


Then OH said that if I made another pair not to worry with the cup opening as he’s an ‘over the topper’. I knew I could improve on the first effort so set off to source some similar fabric to the Thread Theory kit. I found this lovely heathered 7% spandex t-shirt fabric at ray stitch  and bought 3 different colours. I also got some soft grey coloured elastic which I will use for all three colours of fabric.

The first fabric I have used is the ‘lime’ which is more of a soft yellow. I have done all the stitching in grey to match the elastic which I think works well.



I much prefer the look of the closed cup option which was clearly explained in the Thread Theory sew along although it doesn’t appear in the written instructions.


This time I made a size smaller and they fit really well although my model is too shy to appear in public !


I bought 50cm of each colour of fabric which is not QUITE enough to squeeze out a pair of Barries as well so these have a waistband made of a previous project…


Whilst these might not be the world’s sexiest undergarments they ARE extremely comfortable. Comfort over style all the way !




Thread Theory Comox Trunks