I don’t know how I’ve managed to miss this Dropje Vest pattern up ’til now . I love a sleeveless overlayer and this one has pockets AND a hood…AND…AND…It has gorgeous darts around the neckline.
I have used a loose weave speckled silk from Croftmill which I had originally purchased for my Stoff and Stil jacket, but which wasn’t quite the right colour for my ‘viking ships’ lining ( I know, choosing your jacket fabric based on the lining is doing things the wrong way round). The lining is a cotton/silk mix with an extremely tight weave and a beautiful drape which I bought from Ditto Fabrics about 18 months ago.
I downloaded the pattern, traced it off and decided that I would make the lined version. The pattern download is only for the unlined version but there is an extremely good free photo tutorial on the Waffle patterns website on how to make the pattern pieces for the lining and how to make and attach the lining. This was a really interesting challenge which I greatly enjoyed, but I missed that I had to leave the bottom band of the outer layer pressed but not sewn before attaching the lining and had to unstitch a bit. This was my error and not to do with the very clear instructions.
I really came to grief when it came to the zip. Yuki specifies zips in 0.5cm increments for the different available sizes of the pattern but I couldn’t find exactly the right size zip (64.5cm) anywhere. In the end I ordered the two nearest from Minerva crafts but when they arrived neither was quite right. Either I had to have the zip not quite meeting the neck or the hip or I had to make either the neck or the hip band bigger.
I went for making an attachment to the hip band on the inside ( making it wider on the outside) and I think that was the right decision as the zip now fits precisely from the exterior front both top and bottom and you can barely see the insert on the lining. I tried to cut the bottom of the jacket and the insert along a single thread line and I think it was worth the effort as you can’t see the join at all unless you know it is there and you look very, very closely.
The lining is slightly bigger than the outer so you are required to make pleats in the lining at centre back, armpits and along the bottom.
Its a bit more sophisticated then my usual gilet, it fits nicely and the colour is very versatile. I’ve also just had an email from Yuki with an additional pattern for sleeves for this garment so I will very probably be making it again !