Stoff & Stil 22054 Hoody

Having made sweatshirts for daughters 1 and 3 I offered to make one for no2. Now no2, unlike her sisters likes ‘designer’ clothing and is always rather dismissive of my handmade efforts but conceded that she would like a sweatshirt as long is it had a higher neckline that the Linden and Catrin I had made for no1 and no3.

I had already purchased and oatmeal coloured speckled fleece from Guthri and Ghani for this project and then spotted this pattern on the Stoff and Stil website. £3.75 ! That seemed very reasonable for a paper pattern so I ordered it and this is what came in the post

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Inside the envelope are three A4 pages with written instructions in various languages and NO PICTURES ! Yikes ! Also in the envelope are these…..

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pre-cut pattern pieces for the size I had ordered in a kind of interfacing fabric, softer than swedish tracing paper but a similar weight. The pattern pieces have holes and notches in them but no other identification so you have to match them up with the pieces shown on the cutting diagram just by shape which for this particular garment is quite easy. It saved so much time having the pattern pieces ready to go.

I had help with the cutting out….

It turns out you need two fabrics for this garment as the hood is lined (or possibly 3 if you use ribbing for the welt and cuffs), fortunately I had some of this cute jersey in my stash which looks quite good with the oatmeal sweatshirting. (I think this came from Plush Addict)

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You make the hood first

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…and then on instruction 7 it says you should overlock all the seams…..except by this point the hood is a sealed unit and you can’t ! I also worked out that the phrase ‘make a stitching’ means ‘topstitch’. I made the hood ties from rouleau strips of the hood lining fabric. I used the sweatshirt fabric for the cuffs and welt rather than ribbing as I didn’t have any the right colour.

AND… I ended up with a really nice sweatshirt

 

All I can say is if no2 doesn’t like it, I’m having it ! She’s a bit smaller than me so it should be more oversize on her.

Stoff & Stil 22054 Hoody

£6.00 outfit (£4.00 wrap skirt £2.00 top)

This is my week 3 weekly make for MeMadeMay 2017. Aside from wearing me made garments every day in May I am also making a weekly garment, this week there are two.

The first is from this Butterick pattern.IMG_6635

I don’t recall where this pattern came from (it smells very musty…), I can only conclude it was purchased for a school DT project, or given to me in a bundle of old patterns from a friend. Anyway it was uncut and free.

I decided to make it up in a cotton that I bought at the knitting and stitching show earlier in the year. I think this cotton is GORGEOUS, I love the texture, I love the colours and I got the roll end of 2.3m for £2.00 a metre and the last bit thrown in for free so £4.00 total. It a medium weight, slightly looser weave than a poplin and with a slight seersucker texture.

The basic skirt is a straight skirt with a false wrap over panel across the front with a rouleau tie and a split up one side. The front is flat and the back is elasticated. It looks simple but was actually more complicated than I thought. There is a lot of edging, around the wrap over, the waistband, the hems and its all done at different times in the construction. I also had to keep an eye on the fabric as the front and backs are remarkably similar but there IS a difference. I made view B the long plain skirt.

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My £2.00 top is made from the Linden sweatshirt pattern (which I have already used 3 times) with a metre of fabric I bought from Fabricland last year with a view to making some pants from it. Unfortunately it didn’t have enough stretch for those so it has been languishing in the cupboard ever since. The fabric is a 2 way stretch cotton jersey with little ‘bubbles’ in stripes in the fabric like a 1960’s swimming costume.

I have tried to match up the stripes evenly on both sides and made the neck binding from a strip of the ‘bubbles’.

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Progress from the sewing classes I have been taking is I have now got a calico from my 4th iteration of my bodice block and it still doesn’t fit…….look at that neckline ! But the bust is now under control….(its much better on)IMG_6636

Roll on Monday !

 

 

£6.00 outfit (£4.00 wrap skirt £2.00 top)

Little Red Skirt

This is the second of my promised weekly makes for MeMadeMay2017. The fabric is a medium weight cotton supposedly Liberty which was a gift from one of my daughters for Christmas.

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I was given a 2m piece of this and originally wanted to make a pair of summer trousers BUT the fabric is only 90cm wide so must be quite old and not enough for trousers. I therefore decided to make a little skirt but make it with extra care due to the provenance of the fabric.

I used the Tweed A line mini skirt hack of the Lace pencil skirt pattern in the GBSB ‘Fashion with Fabric’ book, mainly because those are both lined skirts and I wanted to line this make. I used a plain red lightweight cotton muslin for the lining. I cut a size 14  but although the pattern measured ok I ended up taking about 6cm off the hips altogether.

I followed the instructions up to the zip insertion, but as I had an ordinary zip as opposed to an invisible zip I had to make it up from there which caused a bit of head scratching but I am really pleased with the result.

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I also faced the waistband, under stitched the facing and attached it at the side seams and dart seams. I have just finished the facing with overlock stitching.

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The hem is finished with satin bias tape.

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The skirt fits nicely but I have given up trying to take photos of myself wearing my makes, I’m totally incompetent.

I have also labelled the skirt with my own label, a packet of which has just arrived from Wunderlabel

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In other sewing excitement I have taken the advice of The Material Lady and have found a relatively local sewing teacher, the rather wonderful Gail Ames. Whilst I have enjoyed sewing for years I know NOTHING !! I’ve really enjoyed the first few sessions and looking forward to many more……

Little Red Skirt

Merchant and Mills Ellis Dress

Apart from the Merchant and Mills official picture on pinterest I can’t find any information or reviews on this pattern, nothing on WordPress, nothing on pinterest, nothing on Instagram, maybe I’m not doing the right searches…or has no-one made this pattern up ? I am about to start making this for the first of my weekly makes for MMMay 2017 and am a bit worried about this dearth of information…..

The fabric I have chosen is a mini seersucker from Stof and Still in red and orage

Anyway, cutting out….I have cut a 14 for the top but have had to narrow the width of the skirt due to the width of the fabric, but as the skirt is so full I didn’t think it would matter. I also chose to make the Ellis dress with the Hattie pockets as illustrated on the pattern sleeve.

The first bit to make is a rouleau loop for the back button IMG_6501           IMG_6502

Followed by the facing for the top

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Then it’s onto the darts for the front. I LOVE this detail, four neck darts and two sort of french darts.

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Then I sort of got carried away and before I knew it the dress was finished ! the only problem I came up against was the pocket placement. On the pattern pieces there are four points marked for the Hattie pocket (which was the one I used as I think the inseam pockets for the Ellis make the dress look too plain) which makes you think the pocket is designed to sit within those four markings on the front skirt piece but on the pattern instruction the pocket is clearly shown as going across the seam between front and back skirt pieces. I finally worked out that two of the pattern markings are for the front and the other two are for the back but it is not clear which ones are which so I just approximated the position from the pattern instructions

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I really love all those front darts !

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Back view.

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Rouleau loop and covered button.

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The finished dress. Now, where did the sun go….?

Merchant and Mills Ellis Dress

Sew Over It Silk Cami

I choose this pattern when I joined the Sew Over It pdf club and as I’ve now made two in a week you could say I like it !

The first one I made was in a very lightweight cotton/silk blend fabric that I bought in the Truro Fabrics shop when on holiday last year. The second one is a viscose from Close and Hamblin in Winchester which I bought last week for making a pair of Tania Culottes but after cutting them out had quite a lot of fabric left over and thought best to use it up straight away rather than stash it. (I’ve got so many bits of fabric 0.7m-1.0m left over from various projects and I MUST make an effort to use them up !)

The pattern has four pieces, two for the main body and two for the facing. The instructions on the whole are very clear although somewhere around instructions 13 and 14 you really do need to do some under stitching on the facing otherwise it just rolls out, this was especially the case with the lightweight silk/cotton fabric.

I cut a 14 and the fit is pretty good on me, I don’t really have the armhole gaping issues that some other people have complained about so I’m happy about that. I think I prefer the green floral top as the silk one is quite see through. If I make another one with such lightweight fabric I’ll do a full length facing.

This is the silk one.

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This is the viscose one. (Note to self, brush hair before taking photo…)

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Here’s hoping for a continuation of the sunny weather. I might make some more of these….

Sew Over It Silk Cami

Tilly and the Buttons Bettine dress

At Tilly’s stand at the Knitting and Stitching show at Olympia my friend Suzanne bought the Cleo dress pattern and was offered a second pattern which I took, the Bettine dress. I’ve seen lots of these around but never tempted to make it myself as I thought the style was too young for me but then I came across Lisa from Sew Over It’s review and thought it might be a possibility.

I had two metres of really inexpensive floaty viscose fabric that I bought last year from The Truro Fabrics shop when on holiday for making a blouse and thought I’d try that. However, looking at Lisa’s static ‘cling’ I thought I would make the skirt out of two layers of fabric rather than one. I also decided to add 8cm to the length of the pattern. (This was ironed flat for cutting out !)

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I then merrily cut out the two top pieces, four skirt pieces and the pocket linings before realising that with the extra skirt length and the two extra skirt pieces I had run out of fabric ! I managed to squeeze in the back neck facing and one pocket bag before giving in and piecing scraps for the remaining pocket bag and the front facing. There was no way enough for the sleeve turn ups and tabs. (Which actually turned out to be a good thing….)

As with the Marigold trousers Tilly’s photo instructions were very clear and easy to follow. Once I had made the top I tried it on and it was obvious that it was just long enough and that if I made the elastic casing as instructed the top would be too short to ‘blouse’. I cunningly used the twin layers of the skirt to create the elastic casing there and attached the top to the skirt with a much narrower seam allowance, which has worked well.

I found that I REALLY didn’t like the all-in-one sleeves as they pulled at the shoulders and around my armpits so I just cut 7.5 cm of them off leaving more of a cap sleeve (See, I didn’t need the cuffs and sleeve tabs at all….)

Sadly I don’t have a photographer so I can’t take a picture of the dress on me. It’s just knee length and it has turned out much nicer than I thought it would. The top is really light and floaty and the double layered skirt hangs well, I also think the two layers of skirt fabric help to stop the pockets from drooping in this lightweight fabric.

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A surprisingly good result.

Tilly and the Buttons Bettine dress

The Ellie Travel Case, Bee Style.

So you know those days when you spend far too much time on the internet reading other people’s blogs ? I was doing just that yesterday when I came across Fabric Mutt’s Ellie Travel Case and thought I’d give it a go.

This bag is made entirely from scraps; the very last bit left over from The Bee Cushion, denim scraps from my Morgan jeans, and the lining  from my Southport dress cutouts. the ‘batting’ is from a jacket lining kit I bought in a fit of enthusiasm for making a tailored jacket but for which I have not yet developed sufficient skill…..

The zip is an old one from a bag of random zips I got from eBay but which I’ve never managed to match up with any previous makes.

Fabric mutt’s instructions and photo tutorial are really clear and potential items of difficulty are pointed out and explained although they didn’t account for me having to sew through 6 layers of denim weight fabric to attach the handles (breaking 3 size 90 needles in the process !)

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The lining went in well.

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And I’m quite pleased with the end result especially as I’ve never made anything like this before. The finished item is washbag sized and I think it’s really cute.

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The Ellie Travel Case, Bee Style.